MAIN FEATURES

Tanalised E pressure treated timber has been impregnated with Tanalith E wood preservative under controlled conditions in a vacuum pressure impregnation plant.

Tanalised E pressure treated timber is protected against fungal decay (rot) and insect attack to ensure an extended service life to the timber/timber components, when treated to the appropriate specification.

Following impregnation, the preservative bonds with the wood structure such that it cannot easily be removed from the timber.

Tanalith E wood preservative is registered and cleared for use under the UK Control of Pesticides Regulations. The preservative contains copper and triazole biocides.

Typical uses for Tanalised E pressure treated timber include general construction, cladding, garden and leisure wood structures, fencing and playground equipment.

Tanalised E pressure treated timber is available with built-in brown colour – Tanatone pressure treated timber.

THE TREATMENT PROCESS

HANDLING PRECAUTIONS

When working with timber, wear gloves to protect the skin against abrasions and splinters. Any cuts and abrasions should be protected by a waterproof dressing.

When power-sawing and machining, wear goggles to protect the eyes from flying particles. Wear a dust mask and, whenever possible, perform these operations outdoors to avoid accumulations of airborne sawdust.

Avoid frequent or prolonged inhalation of sawdust. Consult HSE Guide EH40, available on the HSE website (www.hse.gov.uk), for further information on workplace exposure limits for wood dust.

In order to prevent injury, care should be taken when lifting or moving timber.

PERSONAL HYGIENE

After handling or working with treated timber, all exposed skin should be washed before commencing other activities, especially eating, drinking, smoking or going to the toilet. If sawdust accumulates on clothes, clean them before reuse. Launder heavily soiled clothes separately from other household wash items.

END USE CONSIDERATIONS

Tanalised E pressure treated timber can be used in internal and external building applications and outdoors, both in ground contact and above the ground, without any need for further protection.

Tanalised E pressure treated timber is treated to meet the requirements of a particular end use. This end use suitability should be confirmed by the supplier of the treated timber. When specifying timber for exterior situations, either treated or untreated, consideration should be given to the propensity of the material to stain light coloured adjacent faces, such as render, paving flags or coated timber surfaces, with its natural extractives during the weathering process. This staining effect can be highlighted where Tanatone treated timber has been selected, although the potential for this to occur does reduce over time. Where used in this type of external environment, it is highly recommended that any contact between the timber and these surfaces is eliminated by design, in order to prevent surface discolouration. Treated timber should not be used where it may come into contact with drinking water or for food preparation surfaces/structures or containers for storage.

When considering the use of Tanalised E pressure treated timber around fish-ponds, please contact Arch Timber Protection for advice.

ON-SITE PRECAUTIONS & WASTE DISPOSAL

All sawdust and construction debris should be cleaned up and disposed of after construction.

Tanalised E pressure treated timber is not classified as hazardous waste. However, post treatment processing wastes, such as sawdust and offcuts, must not be used for animal litter or bedding.

Tanalised E pressure treated timber should not be used for fuel in barbecues, cooking stoves or grates. Householders should dispose of the timber, sawdust or ash through the ordinary waste collection service or at a local authority amenity/disposal site. Any waste timber, sawdust or redundant timber from commercial or industrial use (e.g. construction sites) should preferably be recycled by re-use, or disposed of to an authorised landfill or to a correctly controlled and approved waste incinerator.

Before You Start

It is best to plan your deck on paper first. The joists and decking boards come in  2.4m, 3.6m and 4.8m lengths, so think about how you can best use these sizes without creating excessive waste or unsightly joints.

Make sure that your deck is not going to obscure access to drain/manhole covers. If your project requires you to concrete in support posts, you should check for underground pipes and cables. Very large decks and raised decks may require planning permission.

Safety First!

Take normal safety precautions when working with timber products. Wear gloves to avoid splinters and a mask when cutting to avoid the inhalation of dust. Wear goggles when using circular saws, drills or sanders and always use an RCD device when using any power tools outside.

Preparing The Area

Mark out the area you plan to deck using wooden pegs and a string line – this will also help you visualise the finished size of your deck. If you are covering a lawned area you should lift the turf first and then cover the bare earth with a landscaping membrane to retard the growth of weeds. Where possible uneven ground should be levelled out, however if this is not possible the higher end of the deck can be supported with timber posts.

Constructing Your Framework

The design of your framework will depend on which pattern you plan to use for your decking. There are three main decking patterns – chevron, diagonal and horizontal. Incredibly intricate designs can be created by breaking the deck into modules of these three basic styles.

Pressure treated 100mm x 47mm joists are ideal for building the frame for a deck measuring up to 3.6m wide or a deck that is sitting on a concrete pad. For larger or raised decks 150mm x 47mm joists are more suitable.

If your deck sits on soft ground you will need to support the frame to prevent it from sinking or going out of level. The easiest way to do this is to either put down a 25mm deep bed of gravel for the frame to sit on, or stand the frame on concrete pad stones bedded down at no more than 1.80m centres. If your deck is raised off the ground you will need to support it with 100mm square timber posts. These posts should be spaced at no more than 1.20m centres, bolted to the frame and concreted in to a depth of 600mm.

Construct the outside of your frame first and then fit in the intermediate joists at no more than 600mm centres. Each joint should be double fixed with 4 inch screws. As you build up the frame, check at regular intervals that it has remained level and square.

Fixing Down The Decking Boards

Loosely lay out the decking over your frame. This will enable you to correctly judge the spacing of your boards. Once you are happy with the spacings, the boards should be cut to length and secured to the frame using two 65mm deck screws at every joist. The screws should be located approx 15mm in from the edge of the decking board and inserted in a grove to help obscure them from view.

If you intend to add either a balustrade, deck panels or a pergola to your deck you should bolt the appropriate posts to your frame first and then cut your decking boards around them.

There will be a detailed guide covering various ways of decorating your deck in ‘Constructing A Garden Deck Part 2′ which is coming soon.

You can purchase everything you need to build your deck from our on-line store.

CLICK HERE TO GO TO THE DECKING CATEGORY