What Are the Benefits of Using New Railway Sleepers?

1. They are easy to source
2. They are easy to handle, cut and fix
3. They are attractive
4. They are long lasting
5. You can use the extra width to create seating or leaning places.
6. You can lay the sleepers horizontally, or cut them in length and fit them in the same way as timber posts.

What Are the Benefits of Using Raised Garden Beds?

1. Increased production.

Raised softwood / oak sleeper beds are more productive per square foot because plants can be spaced more closely together. This is because you don’t need to leave spaces to walk through, because you don’t need to ever step on the garden bed.

Having a higher density planting also has the advantage that the plants growing there will shade out bare soil, making it harder for weeds to grow there. There most important benefit of raised garden beds is productivity. Raised garden beds are at least twice as productive as a conventional garden.

2. Better soil conditions.

Since there is no soil compaction, there is no need to plow, till, fork or dig the soil to loosen it up, traditional practices which destroy the soil structure and do more harm than good. Therefore, raised bed designs also lend themselves very well to the gardening technique of “no-dig gardening”. You can use raised garden beds to overcome issues of poor drainage, poor soil, or even no soil, such as gardening on top of straight concrete or asphalt, because you create the garden bed and fill it with the type of soil you require, and build it by adding organic matter.

You could even create a number of beds with different soil blends for a variety of different growing environments. By not having to step on the soil, you avoid soil compaction. When soil is compacted, water and air do not move as easily through the soil to the roots of plants. Even the plant roots themselves have trouble growing through compacted soil, limiting the plant’s access to water and nutrients. It has been suggested that soil compaction can lead to a 50% loss in productivity.

3. Increased flexibility.

You can also attach trellises, supports, fences, frames, or shade cloth over/around the raised sleeper bed much more easily, or permanently as part of the structure. For people with physical limitations, such as those unable to bend over, or who are confined to a wheelchair, waist high raised beds are the answer.

A bed of this height will enable the person to partake in their interest in gardening without hindrance.Not having to step in the garden bed has the benefit of being able to tend to the garden, that is, sow, plant and harvest, whenever you want, even when the ground is wet because you won’t be stepping in mud!

4. More efficient irrigation.

Raised beds can support very thick layers of mulch above the soil, which will not slide off, or be blown or washed away. This not only aids in water conservation, but allows you to enrich and build the soil through the constant addition of organic matter.

The dimensions of raised beds lend themselves to the installation of drip irrigation, which is an efficient way to water the garden, minimising loss by evaporation, and reducing disease by not wetting the plant’s leaves.

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1. PLANNING YOUR PROJECT Most traditional fence panels are made to a standard 6ft width, and are usually available in four heights – 3ft, 4ft, 5ft & 6ft. If Supalite EcoFence gravel boards are to be used, you should make an allowance of 1ft per board. Posts should usually be 2ft longer than the actual fence height (including the gravel board if used). Supalite EcoFence posts should be concreted 2ft into the ground to ensure that the fence is sturdy.

2. MARKING OUT THE RUN Establish the line of the fence by stretching a strong cord between stakes at the extremities of the run. Note that the posts should always be on your side of the boundary. Be sure to clear away any plants and vegetation along the line of the fence.

3. MOUNTING THE FIRST POST The first post will be the datum point for the complete run and therefore must be set accurately and upright. If the fence is running up to the house make sure the first post is securely attached to the building with sleeve anchors. Be sure to insert these directly into the brickwork and not into the mortar.

Sleeve anchors should be spaced no more than 2ft (0.6m) apart with no less than two in total. Drill the holes in the post first and allow only a small clearance over the shank diameter of the anchor bolt. Offer the post to the wall ensuring it is level in both vertical planes and aligned correctly using a spirit level . If necessary use packing between the post and the wall. Bolt the post firmly into position.

If the first post is in open ground it will again need to be upright and perpendicular to the ground in both vertical planes and facing accurately in the correct direction. Mount in rapid set post-mix as detailed below then attach to the first fence panel using 63mm wood screws.

4. FIXING YOUR POSTS IN CONCRETE Following the line you have marked, using either a post borer or grafter, dig holes to accommodate the posts at a minimum depth of 26″ (650mm). Pack the base of the hole with approximately 50mm of broken brick or stone hardcore to provide initial support for your post. Utilising wooden braces for support as well as a spirit level, and square for positioning, pack with more hardcore around the bottom of the post leaving approximately 1ft (300mm) for further packing and concrete. When you are satisfied the post is level fill the hole with rapid set post-mix. You should allow a full 24 hours for the concrete to go off and set fully before removing the support braces.

When finishing the concrete around the base of the post, angle the concrete away from the post to allow rainwater to drain away easily.

5. SECURING THE GRAVELBOARD AND FENCE PANEL Place the gravel board into the ‘H’ slot of the post and align. The gravelboard may be sunk into the ground to provide a more secure fitting.

Secure the post as above, and finally, slot the fence panel between the two posts. If required, cut the posts down to size using standard cutting tools and complete by fitting decorative caps to posts.

6. CREATING A FENCE ON SLOPE Essentially the methods above can be used to create a sloping fence. Cut your PVC gravel board to shape using standard cutting tools to provide a terrace effect.

Longer fence posts may be required to compensate for the stepped panels. Where possible, attempt to spread the change as evenly as possible over the fence run to provide a more aesthetically pleasing finish.

You can check out our full range of Supalite EcoFence products by clicking the link below.

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MAIN FEATURES

Tanalised E pressure treated timber has been impregnated with Tanalith E wood preservative under controlled conditions in a vacuum pressure impregnation plant.

Tanalised E pressure treated timber is protected against fungal decay (rot) and insect attack to ensure an extended service life to the timber/timber components, when treated to the appropriate specification.

Following impregnation, the preservative bonds with the wood structure such that it cannot easily be removed from the timber.

Tanalith E wood preservative is registered and cleared for use under the UK Control of Pesticides Regulations. The preservative contains copper and triazole biocides.

Typical uses for Tanalised E pressure treated timber include general construction, cladding, garden and leisure wood structures, fencing and playground equipment.

Tanalised E pressure treated timber is available with built-in brown colour – Tanatone pressure treated timber.

THE TREATMENT PROCESS

HANDLING PRECAUTIONS

When working with timber, wear gloves to protect the skin against abrasions and splinters. Any cuts and abrasions should be protected by a waterproof dressing.

When power-sawing and machining, wear goggles to protect the eyes from flying particles. Wear a dust mask and, whenever possible, perform these operations outdoors to avoid accumulations of airborne sawdust.

Avoid frequent or prolonged inhalation of sawdust. Consult HSE Guide EH40, available on the HSE website (www.hse.gov.uk), for further information on workplace exposure limits for wood dust.

In order to prevent injury, care should be taken when lifting or moving timber.

PERSONAL HYGIENE

After handling or working with treated timber, all exposed skin should be washed before commencing other activities, especially eating, drinking, smoking or going to the toilet. If sawdust accumulates on clothes, clean them before reuse. Launder heavily soiled clothes separately from other household wash items.

END USE CONSIDERATIONS

Tanalised E pressure treated timber can be used in internal and external building applications and outdoors, both in ground contact and above the ground, without any need for further protection.

Tanalised E pressure treated timber is treated to meet the requirements of a particular end use. This end use suitability should be confirmed by the supplier of the treated timber. When specifying timber for exterior situations, either treated or untreated, consideration should be given to the propensity of the material to stain light coloured adjacent faces, such as render, paving flags or coated timber surfaces, with its natural extractives during the weathering process. This staining effect can be highlighted where Tanatone treated timber has been selected, although the potential for this to occur does reduce over time. Where used in this type of external environment, it is highly recommended that any contact between the timber and these surfaces is eliminated by design, in order to prevent surface discolouration. Treated timber should not be used where it may come into contact with drinking water or for food preparation surfaces/structures or containers for storage.

When considering the use of Tanalised E pressure treated timber around fish-ponds, please contact Arch Timber Protection for advice.

ON-SITE PRECAUTIONS & WASTE DISPOSAL

All sawdust and construction debris should be cleaned up and disposed of after construction.

Tanalised E pressure treated timber is not classified as hazardous waste. However, post treatment processing wastes, such as sawdust and offcuts, must not be used for animal litter or bedding.

Tanalised E pressure treated timber should not be used for fuel in barbecues, cooking stoves or grates. Householders should dispose of the timber, sawdust or ash through the ordinary waste collection service or at a local authority amenity/disposal site. Any waste timber, sawdust or redundant timber from commercial or industrial use (e.g. construction sites) should preferably be recycled by re-use, or disposed of to an authorised landfill or to a correctly controlled and approved waste incinerator.

Before You Start

It is best to plan your deck on paper first. The joists and decking boards come in  2.4m, 3.6m and 4.8m lengths, so think about how you can best use these sizes without creating excessive waste or unsightly joints.

Make sure that your deck is not going to obscure access to drain/manhole covers. If your project requires you to concrete in support posts, you should check for underground pipes and cables. Very large decks and raised decks may require planning permission.

Safety First!

Take normal safety precautions when working with timber products. Wear gloves to avoid splinters and a mask when cutting to avoid the inhalation of dust. Wear goggles when using circular saws, drills or sanders and always use an RCD device when using any power tools outside.

Preparing The Area

Mark out the area you plan to deck using wooden pegs and a string line – this will also help you visualise the finished size of your deck. If you are covering a lawned area you should lift the turf first and then cover the bare earth with a landscaping membrane to retard the growth of weeds. Where possible uneven ground should be levelled out, however if this is not possible the higher end of the deck can be supported with timber posts.

Constructing Your Framework

The design of your framework will depend on which pattern you plan to use for your decking. There are three main decking patterns – chevron, diagonal and horizontal. Incredibly intricate designs can be created by breaking the deck into modules of these three basic styles.

Pressure treated 100mm x 47mm joists are ideal for building the frame for a deck measuring up to 3.6m wide or a deck that is sitting on a concrete pad. For larger or raised decks 150mm x 47mm joists are more suitable.

If your deck sits on soft ground you will need to support the frame to prevent it from sinking or going out of level. The easiest way to do this is to either put down a 25mm deep bed of gravel for the frame to sit on, or stand the frame on concrete pad stones bedded down at no more than 1.80m centres. If your deck is raised off the ground you will need to support it with 100mm square timber posts. These posts should be spaced at no more than 1.20m centres, bolted to the frame and concreted in to a depth of 600mm.

Construct the outside of your frame first and then fit in the intermediate joists at no more than 600mm centres. Each joint should be double fixed with 4 inch screws. As you build up the frame, check at regular intervals that it has remained level and square.

Fixing Down The Decking Boards

Loosely lay out the decking over your frame. This will enable you to correctly judge the spacing of your boards. Once you are happy with the spacings, the boards should be cut to length and secured to the frame using two 65mm deck screws at every joist. The screws should be located approx 15mm in from the edge of the decking board and inserted in a grove to help obscure them from view.

If you intend to add either a balustrade, deck panels or a pergola to your deck you should bolt the appropriate posts to your frame first and then cut your decking boards around them.

There will be a detailed guide covering various ways of decorating your deck in ‘Constructing A Garden Deck Part 2′ which is coming soon.

You can purchase everything you need to build your deck from our on-line store.

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